Glossary of Swimming Pool and Spa Parts

Pool Fittings - names & descriptions

Here are the most common pool fittings explained as what they are, what they do, what they look like, and where in a pool they are found. 
Names can vary from one country to another, these names are for Australian swimming pools.

Skimmer Box – A rectangular fitting built into the pool wall at water level. On the pool deck it shows as a square or round lid you can lift, and underneath is a basket. Its job is to suck in surface water and trap floating leaves and debris before they sink. It is always located at the side of the pool, just below the coping, and is connected to the suction line that leads back to the filter pump.

Weir Door – A swinging flap inside the skimmer opening. It looks like a small gate that moves with the water. Its job is to let water and debris flow into the skimmer while stopping them from floating back out when the pump is off. It is found right at the pool wall opening of the skimmer.

Skimmer Basket – A plastic mesh basket that sits inside the skimmer box. It looks like a small round laundry basket. Its job is to catch leaves, insects, and other debris while still letting water pass through to the pump. It is located directly under the skimmer lid on the pool deck.

Skimmer Lid / Dress Ring – The visible lid above the skimmer box. It looks like a flat plastic or stone cover, often blending in with the paving. Its job is to give access for cleaning while keeping the skimmer basket hidden and safe. It is located flush with the pool surrounds, directly above the skimmer.

Skimmer Throat – The narrow channel between the pool and the skimmer box. It looks like a short tunnel at the waterline. Its job is to funnel surface water and debris into the skimmer. It is located in the pool wall at the waterline, connecting directly into the skimmer body.

Skimmer Equalizer Line – A secondary suction line used in older pools. It looks like a small round wall fitting below the skimmer. Its job was to keep suction flow if the water level dropped too low. It connects into the skimmer suction line but is rarely used in modern pools.

Main Drain / Suction Outlet – A round outlet on the pool floor. It looks like a flat disc or square grate with slots. Its job is to pull water from the bottom of the pool for circulation and allow the pool to be emptied if needed. It is located at the deepest point of the pool and connected directly to the main suction pipe to the pump.

Split Main Drains – Two floor drains spaced apart but plumbed together. They look like matching grates about a metre apart. Their job is to spread suction across more than one outlet to reduce entrapment risk. They are located side by side at the deep end floor and tied into the same suction line. These can also be referred to as split suctions when located on the spa floor.

Anti-Vortex Cover – A domed cover that fits over a main drain. It looks like a raised, rounded grate instead of a flat one. Its job is to reduce dangerous suction by preventing hair or a body from sealing the drain. It is located over the main drain outlet on the pool floor.

Hydrostatic Relief Valve – A one-way valve fitted in the floor sump. It looks like a small spring-loaded insert under the drain cover. Its job is to let groundwater enter the pool if pressure builds under the shell, preventing the pool from popping up. It is located in the sump pot beneath the main drain cover.

Sump Pot – A recessed chamber built under the main drain. It looks like a small concrete box with pipe fittings inside. Its job is to house the hydrostatic valve and provide connection points for main drain plumbing. It is located at the deepest part of the pool floor.

Vacuum Plate – A flat plastic plate that sits on top of the skimmer basket. It looks like a disc with a hose fitting in the middle. Its job is to allow a vacuum hose to connect to the skimmer while still catching debris in the basket. It is placed inside the skimmer box and connects to a standard vacuum hose.

Dedicated Vacuum Point – A wall fitting for vacuum hoses or suction cleaners. It looks like a small screw-in port on the pool wall. Its job is to provide direct suction for cleaning without using the skimmer. It is usually located halfway down the wall in the deep end and plumbed to the suction line.

Suction Lid (Deck Lid Canister) – A lid on the deck covering an in-deck suction canister. It looks like a round or square lid similar to a skimmer lid. Its job is to give access to leaf canisters or suction points built into the paving. It is located in the pool surrounds and tied into the suction plumbing from the skimmer line.

Return Inlet – A fitting that returns filtered water to the pool. It looks like a small round nozzle in the wall, about the size of a golf ball. Its job is to circulate clean, treated water back into the pool. It is found in the walls just below the waterline and connected to the return line from the filter.

Eyeball Return – A return inlet with a moveable ball nozzle. It looks like a round fitting with a ball that can be swivelled by hand. Its job is to aim the returning water flow, helping circulate chemicals and push debris toward the skimmer. It is located in the pool wall and connected to the return plumbing.

Eyeball Orifice Insert – A small insert inside an eyeball return. It looks like a ring with a hole of different sizes. Its job is to control the speed and pressure of the water coming back into the pool. It is located inside the eyeball return and connects directly to the return line flow.

Wide-Angle Return – A return nozzle designed to spread water broadly. It looks flatter than an eyeball nozzle. Its job is to send water gently over a wider area instead of in one strong stream. It is located in the wall and plumbed to the return line.

Flush Return – A low-profile return fitting that sits flat against the wall. It looks like a small circle almost level with the pool wall. Its job is to return filtered water with no protrusion. It is located in the wall and tied into the return plumbing.

Safety-Grille Return – A return fitting with a built-in protective cover. It looks like a small vent with slots. Its job is to reduce the chance of fingers or hair getting caught. It is found on walls or shallow zones and connected to the return line.

Floor Return – A return outlet built into the pool floor. It looks like a flat round fitting flush with the surface. Its job is to push clean water up from the bottom, improving circulation in deeper pools. It is located on the floor and plumbed into the return line.

Cleaner Wall Fitting (Pressure Port) – A wall fitting for pressure-side cleaners. It looks like a threaded port on the wall. Its job is to supply high-pressure water from a booster pump to power a cleaner. It is located on the wall and connected to the pressure line.

Suction Cleaner Port – A wall suction fitting designed for suction cleaners. It looks like a port similar to a vacuum point. Its job is to provide suction directly to a cleaner hose without using the skimmer. It is located mid-depth on the wall and connected to the suction line and usually has male threads so that it can be 'screwed' or twisted on and that means inside the pool the pipe will have a female threaded pvc pipe, this was done to be able to replace the part or change part entirely, here is an image of a suction cleaner port:

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Lighting & Electrical

Jargon terms explained

Pool Light – A round waterproof light that fits into the pool wall. It usually looks like a flat disc or faceplate that finishes flush with the interior, though some surface-mounted models sit on top of the wall instead of recessed. Its job is to illuminate the pool at night and create ambience. It is located below the waterline, most often in the deep end wall, and is wired back through conduits to an external transformer for safety.

Pool Light Niche – A built-in housing that holds the light unit. It looks like a circular cavity cast into the shell that allows the light to sit flush with the wall. Its job is to provide a waterproof chamber for the light and allow easy replacement. It is always located inside the concrete pool wall at the chosen light position.

Surface-Mounted Pool Light – A light that sits on top of the wall surface instead of recessed. It looks like a thicker round fixture that protrudes slightly from the pool wall. Its job is the same as a niche light but it is easier to retrofit into existing pools. It is located on the inside pool wall and fixed directly to the finish.

Conduit – A protective pipe that carries the pool light cable. It looks like a plastic tube leading away from the light housing. Its job is to route and protect the electrical wire running from the light to the junction box. It is hidden behind the wall, running through the shell out to the deck / coping area.

Cable Junction Box – A sealed box where the pool light cable joins external power. It looks like a small covered box, often plastic, though some older systems used metal. Its job is to keep the connection dry and safe while linking the light to the transformer. It is located above water level near the deck / coping or garden area.

Inspection Cover (Cable Cover) – An access cover over the pool light junction box or conduits. It looks like a small round or square lid in the deck / coping. In some older pools it may be a small metal plate, often engraved with the installer’s business name. Its job is to provide access for inspection and maintenance. It is located in the paving or coping around the pool, directly above the cable junction.

LED Pool Light – A modern light unit using LEDs. It looks like a standard pool light faceplate but inside are multiple small diodes. Its job is to provide bright, energy-efficient lighting with long life. It is located in the niche or mounted on the wall and wired through the conduit to the transformer.

Light Faceplate / Trim – The visible outer cover of a pool or spa light. It looks like a neat round disc in white, stainless steel, or coloured plastic. Its job is to hold the light in place, protect the interior, and finish the look. It is located flush against the pool wall at the light position.

Lanolin Sealant – A protective substance used inside pool lights. It looks like a clear / creamy yellow, waxy grease applied around electronic parts. Its job is to protect wiring and connections from moisture and corrosion. It is located inside the light housing around electrical components.

“Tri” Colour Light – A pool light that produces three set colours. It looks like a standard LED light but cycles between three colour options. Its job is to provide a simple multi-colour effect without complex controls. 

“Multi” Colour Light – A pool light that can display multiple or changing colours. It looks like a normal LED pool light but can shift between a wide range of colours. Its job is to create mood lighting and effects. 

Remote Control System – A control unit linked to the transformer. It looks like a small wireless remote that connects wirelessly to a control box, the transformer is also connected to the control box via a power socket. Its job is to turn pool lights on or off and change colours without needing to access the transformer directly. It is located outside the pool, paired with the light transformer and control circuits.

Transformer – An electrical unit that reduces mains power to low voltage. It looks like a small box, often mounted near the equipment or house wall. Its job is to supply the pool light safely at 12, 24 or 32 volts. It is located away from the pool, usually in the equipment area or near a power outlet. Anything above 12v must be handled by an electrician.

Bonding / Earthing – A protective electrical wire connecting metal parts around the pool. It looks like a green or bare copper wire clamped to ladders, rails, or other metal. Its job is to prevent electric shock by safely grounding stray current. It is located around the pool surrounds and in the equipment area.

Spa Light – A smaller waterproof light for spas. It looks like a compact version of a pool light, sometimes with coloured lenses. Its job is to provide safety and ambience in the spa. It is located in the spa wall or footwell, positioned to light seating areas. In most cases, a spa will have the same light as the swimming pool.

Fibre-Optic Pool Lighting – An older pool lighting system using fibre strands. It looks like many tiny points of light or glowing strips. Its job was to light the pool indirectly by carrying light from a separate illuminator box. It is located in the pool wall or floor fittings, with the main light source in a dry enclosure away from the pool.

Detailed pool light information can also be seen here: Melbourne swimming pool lights

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In-floor cleaning system parts

Swimming pool jargon explained

Pop-Up Head – A retractable cleaning nozzle built into the pool interior. It looks like a small round disc that sits flush with the floor, steps, or benches. When the system runs, the head pops up and shoots a jet of water, then retracts back down. Its job is to sweep debris toward the main drain or debris drain. It is located across the pool floor, steps, benches, and ledges in a grid pattern.

Pop-Up Step Jet – A cleaning nozzle designed for pool steps. It looks just like a pop-up head but is fitted into vertical or horizontal step surfaces. Its job is to flush dirt and debris off the steps into circulation. It is located on the pool steps.

Pop-Up Bench Jet – A cleaning nozzle built into bench seats or ledges. It looks the same as a standard pop-up head but is installed on horizontal bench areas. Its job is to keep benches clear of dirt by pushing debris into the flow of the system. It is located on pool benches and shallow ledges.

Nozzle Insert – A removable tip fitted inside a pop-up head. It looks like a small plastic piece with a hole at a certain angle or size. Its job is to control the spray pattern, direction, and flow rate of each head. It is located inside the pop-up head and can be swapped for different cleaning needs.

In-Floor Zone – A section of the pool that cleans in sequence. It looks like a group of pop-up heads that all rise and spray at the same time. Its job is to divide the pool into cleaning stages, so only one zone runs at once for maximum water pressure. It is located across the pool floor and steps, organised into 4–6 zones depending on pool size.

Distribution Valve (5-Port / 6-Port) – A large valve that directs water to the zones. It looks like a round plastic canister with multiple pipes coming out of the top. Inside is a rotating mechanism that cycles water from the pump to each zone in turn. Its job is to power the in-floor system and sequence the pop-up heads. It is located near the equipment area, plumbed into the return line after the filter.

Valve Housing & Deck Lid – The enclosure that covers the distribution valve. It looks like a round or square lid set into the deck / coping area. Underneath is the valve body. Its job is to hide and protect the valve while keeping it serviceable. It is located in the pool surrounds above the distribution valve.

Debris Drain – A special floor drain designed for in-floor cleaning. It looks like a large flat grate on the pool floor. Its job is to collect debris swept across the floor by pop-up heads and send it toward the debris canister. It is located at the lowest point of the pool floor and plumbed to the canister.

Deck / Coping-Mounted Debris Canister – A large in-deck basket that collects leaves and debris. It looks like a tall in-ground canister with a removable basket inside and a lid on top. Its job is to trap debris before water goes to the filter pump. It is located in the pool surrounds (deck / coping area), directly plumbed between the debris drain and the skimmer box suction line to the pump. 

Leaf Catcher Lid – The access cover above a debris canister. It looks like a round lid set into the paving, sometimes plastic, sometimes stone-matched. Its job is to allow cleaning of the basket inside while keeping the canister hidden. It is located in the deck / coping above the debris canister.

Pump (Dedicated In-Floor Pump) – A booster pump used for in-floor cleaning systems. It looks like a standard pool pump but is sized for higher pressure. Its job is to drive water to the distribution valve so the pop-ups can operate. It is located in the equipment area next to the filter.

Filter (Shared or Dedicated) – The filtration unit connected to the in-floor system. It looks like a large cartridge or sand filter. Its job is to remove dirt collected by the in-floor system before water returns to the pool. It is located in the equipment area after the pump and before the return plumbing.

Actuator Mechanism – The internal part of the distribution valve that shifts flow. It looks like a rotating plate or gear assembly inside the valve housing. Its job is to divert water flow from one port to the next, controlling which zone operates. It is located inside the distribution valve body.

Check Valve – A one-way valve installed on the in-floor return line. It looks like a clear or opaque housing with an internal flap. Its job is to stop water flowing backwards into the system when the pump turns off. It is located in the plumbing near the valve or canister.

Pressure Gauge (on Distribution Valve) – A small dial fitted to the valve lid. It looks like a round gauge showing PSI. Its job is to indicate system pressure for troubleshooting. It is located on the top of the distribution valve.

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Spa Parts & general terms

Spa jargon explained

Spa Shell – The reinforced concrete body that forms the spa. It looks like a smaller bowl-shaped structure attached to or separate from the pool. Its job is to contain the spa water, seating, jets, and footwell. It is located next to the pool as an integrated feature or as a standalone structure.

Spa Spillover / Spillway – The opening where spa water flows into the pool. It looks like a tiled gap or lip on the spa’s edge. Its job is to let spa water return to the pool for circulation or visual effect. It is located on the dam wall between the spa and pool.

Spa Bench / Therapy Seat – The seating area within the spa. It looks like a wide concrete ledge shaped for sitting. Its job is to provide comfortable areas where users can sit and feel the jets. It is located around the spa walls, usually in a circular or semi-circular arrangement.

Spa Footwell – The recessed area at the base of the spa. It looks like a deeper bowl-shaped floor area. Its job is to give space for feet while seated and house jets or drains. It is located in the very bottom centre of the spa.

Spa Suction Outlets (Dual) – Floor or wall suction fittings connected to the pump. They look like two round drains with covers spaced apart. Their job is to draw water out for filtration and jet circulation while reducing entrapment risk by splitting suction. They are located in the spa floor or low on the walls.

Spa Jet Body – The built-in housing that holds each jet. It looks like a white plastic fitting embedded in the spa shell. Its job is to provide the plumbing chamber for jet inserts. It is located throughout the spa walls and sometimes the floor.

Jet Internals / Nozzles – The removable inserts inside spa jets. They look like small adjustable pieces that snap into the jet body. Their job is to shape the water and air stream, creating the massage effect. They are located inside every spa jet body.

Directional Jet – A spa jet that produces a single adjustable stream. It looks like a round nozzle with a movable centre. Its job is to aim a steady massage stream at a chosen spot. It is located in spa walls near seats.

Rotary Jet – A spa jet with a rotating massage action. It looks similar to a directional jet but with an internal spinner. Its job is to provide a moving, kneading sensation instead of a single stream. It is located in therapy seats and wall areas.

Cluster Jet – A compact jet that produces multiple small streams. It looks like a small nozzle with several holes. Its job is to deliver a concentrated massage effect. It is located in groups around seats, often for targeted back massage.

Neck Jet – A jet positioned to hit the neck and shoulders. It looks like a slightly higher-mounted nozzle in the spa wall. Its job is to relieve tension at the top of the spine and shoulders. It is located high on the spa wall behind seats.

Foot Jet – A jet located in the spa footwell. It looks like a round nozzle fitted low in the spa. Its job is to massage the feet and calves. It is located in the spa floor or footwell walls.

Air Injector – A small outlet that produces fine air bubbles. It looks like a tiny round hole or button in the spa seats or floor. Its job is to release streams of bubbles for comfort and a champagne effect. It is located on benches, steps, or the spa floor in clusters.

Air Manifold – The distribution pipe that feeds air to all the injectors. It looks like a plastic header with multiple small hose connections. Its job is to spread blower air evenly to each injector. It is located beneath the spa shell, hidden in the plumbing system.

Venturi Tee – A jet fitting that mixes air into the water line. It looks like a T-shaped pipe with one line for water and a small port for air. Its job is to create the water/air mix that powers spa jets. It is located in the plumbing lines connected to jet bodies.

Air Control Knob – A control on the spa top edge for regulating air. It looks like a small twist knob on the coping. Its job is to allow the user to adjust the amount of air mixed into the jets. It is located on the spa coping or bench edge, connected to the venturi system.

Spa Spill Edge Tile – A durable tile finish applied to the spa overflow edge. It looks like a row of decorative tiles at the top of the spa wall. Its job is to provide a neat, water-resistant finish for the spillover area. It is located along the dam wall where water flows into the pool.

Blower (Air Pump) – A separate pump that forces air into the spa injectors. It looks like a small motorised unit, often in a plastic housing. Its job is to create the bubble effect by supplying air under pressure. It is located near the pool equipment area and connected to the air manifold.

Check Valve (Air Line) – A one-way valve on the spa air line. It looks like a small clear or opaque valve in the air piping. Its job is to stop water from flowing back into the blower when it’s off. It is located on the air plumbing between the spa and the blower.

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Special Features & Overflow Systems

Swimming pool terms explained

Infinity Edge / Vanishing Edge – A raised wall where pool water spills over into a hidden basin. It looks like the water has no boundary and seems to merge with the horizon. Its job is to create a luxury visual effect while also circulating water into a lower catch basin. It is located on one side of a swimming pool, usually facing a view. Pool owners choose it for its design impact. During a pool renovation the edge tiles and waterproofing are often upgraded, but the structural wall itself usually lasts the life of the pool. Maintenance is minimal, though the edge can show wear if water chemistry is poor.

Catch Basin / Trough – The channel that collects water spilling over from an infinity edge. It looks like a hidden gutter or small secondary pool beneath the weir wall. Its job is to capture the overflowing water and direct it back to the filtration system. It is located below and parallel to the main pool wall. For pool owners, it is critical to keep this basin clean, as leaves and debris collect here. During a pool renovation the basin can be retiled or resurfaced to match the pool interior, but the plumbing rarely needs replacement unless damaged.

Surge Tank / Balance Tank – An underground reservoir that stores overflow water. It looks like a buried concrete or plastic tank with pipe connections and access lids. Its job is to balance water levels in pools with infinity edges, perimeter overflows, or deck-level systems. It is located underground near the swimming pool, often under paving or garden areas. For pool owners, the tank is rarely touched during normal renovations unless leaking or undersized. The float valves inside may need replacement every 5–10 years depending on wear.

Knife-Edge / Perimeter Overflow – A slot overflow running around the entire pool edge. It looks like a thin gap at deck level where water sheets evenly into a hidden gutter. Its job is to create a perfectly still mirror-like pool surface and maximise skimming. It is located around the pool perimeter, integrated into the coping and deck paving. For pool owners, this system is very high-end and requires precise tile work. During pool renovations, the slot edge and gutters are typically retiled or refinished for appearance and waterproofing. Mechanical parts last many years if water chemistry is well maintained.

Overflow Skimmer (Deck / coping Level) – A wide skimmer built at paving height. It looks like a long slot at deck level instead of a small wall opening. Its job is to draw water directly from the surface into a balance tank, keeping the pool water level even with the deck. It is located along the pool edge at paving height. Pool owners benefit from maximum skimming and an elegant look. During renovations these skimmers are usually kept in place but can be upgraded if replacing coping or tiling. The baskets and lids may need replacing every few years.

Scupper / fountain / water feature – A decorative outlet that allows water to pour into the pool. It looks like a metal, tile, or stone spout projecting from a wall. Its job is to create a stream or sheet of water flowing into the pool, often for sound and appearance. It is located on raised pool walls, water features, or spa spillways. For pool owners, scuppers can be refinished or replaced during a renovation to match new tiles or coping. They rarely fail structurally, but seals may need checking over time.

Sheer Descent – A water feature that produces a smooth, even sheet of water. It looks like a narrow horizontal slot often hidden under coping or stone. Its job is to create a “water curtain” effect flowing into the swimming pool. It is located on raised feature walls or the back of spas. For pool owners, sheer descents are popular upgrades during renovations for aesthetics. The fittings themselves usually last many years but may clog with calcium if water chemistry is poor.

Bubbler / Geyser Jet – A fitting on the pool or spa floor that produces an upward bubbling stream. It looks like a small round nozzle flush with the floor. Its job is to create a playful bubbling effect, often in shallow areas or on tanning ledges. It is located in shallow pool floors, ledges, or spas. For pool owners, bubblers can be added during resurfacing renovations if plumbing access exists. They are durable but may require replacement inserts over time.

Laminar Jet – A deck-mounted jet that creates a smooth, glass-like arc of water. It looks like a small round nozzle hidden in the paving, projecting a perfect clear stream of water into the pool. Its job is to create decorative arcs, sometimes lit with fibre optics or LEDs. It is located in the deck / coping area, aimed toward the pool. For pool owners, laminars are premium features often installed during a new build, but they can be added during a renovation with extra plumbing. Cleaning the nozzles occasionally is needed to maintain a smooth flow.

Autofill Box (Float Valve Housing) – An in-deck box that holds an automatic water-level valve. It looks like a small lid in the coping or deck, covering a float valve chamber. Its job is to keep the pool water level constant by topping up automatically from the mains supply. It is located in the deck / coping area, usually connected to the balance tank or skimmer line. For pool owners, this is a low-maintenance system but valves may need replacement every 5–10 years. During renovations the box lid can be updated to match new paving.

Overflow Waste Outlet – A discharge line for excess water. It looks like a pipe outlet from the balance tank or overflow gutter. Its job is to release excess water from the system during heavy rain or overfilling, preventing flooding. It is located on the balance tank or overflow system plumbing, directing water away to waste. For pool owners, it is not usually touched during renovations, but it is critical for preventing deck flooding. The outlet and valves should be inspected regularly to ensure proper drainage.

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Older pool legacy fittings 

Legacy pool terms explained

Flip Hose – An early in-floor cleaning system that used a weighted hose to sweep the pool floor. It looks like a long flexible hose with a weighted end that “flips” across the pool when water pressure changes. Its job was to lift and push debris off the swimming pool floor so it could be collected by the skimmer box. It is located inside the pool and connected to the return line. For pool owners, flip hoses are no longer installed in modern swimming pools and are usually cancelled or removed during pool renovations. They required regular replacement due to wear and clogging.

Flip Hose Fountain Button – A decorative fountain-style attachment for flip hoses. It looks like a small round nozzle or cap fitted to the hose end that sprayed water upward like a fountain. Its job was partly decorative, creating a spray effect while the hose cleaned. It was located in the swimming pool, attached to the working end of the flip hose. For pool owners, these fittings are considered outdated and are usually removed or disconnected during pool renovations. They often leaked or clogged and rarely lasted the life of the pool surface.

Fountain Head Fitting – An older deck-mounted nozzle that produced water fountains. It looks like a raised spout or metal nozzle fitted into the deck / coping or surrounding paving. Its job was to shoot streams of water into the pool for decoration. It is located in the deck / coping area around older pools. For pool owners, fountain heads are now considered legacy features and are not often included in modern builds. They may be capped or replaced with new water features during renovations. Lifespan depended on material (metal nozzles often corroded and needed replacing).

Vac Alert Port (Legacy Safety) – An older vacuum safety fitting once used to reduce suction hazards. It looks like a small port connected to suction plumbing, often with a spring-loaded device. Its job was to relieve suction in case of entrapment when using vacuum lines. It was located in the pool wall or deck plumbing near suction fittings. For pool owners, Vac Alert ports have been replaced by modern dual suction outlets, split drains, and anti-vortex covers. They are typically cancelled or removed during pool renovations as part of modern compliance upgrades.

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Steps, Ledges & Access

Swimming pool terms explained

Entry Steps – Built-in steps that allow safe entry into a swimming pool. They look like wide, shallow tiers cast into the shell, usually finished in tile, pebble, or plaster. Their job is to make it easy and safe for pool owners and guests to enter and exit the pool. They are located at the shallow end wall of the swimming pool. During pool renovations, steps are often resurfaced to match the new interior finish, and step-edge tiles may be replaced for safety and visibility. Structural steps rarely need replacing, but tile markers may need refreshing every 10–15 years.

Swim-Out / Bench Seat – A resting ledge or bench seat built into the pool wall. It looks like a horizontal shelf wide enough to sit on, often tiled or finished to match the pool surface. Its job is to give swimmers a safe resting place without leaving the water. It is located along deep end walls or corners of the swimming pool. During renovations, bench seats are refinished with the new surface and feature tiles may be updated. These features last the lifetime of the pool shell but finishes may need upgrading every renovation cycle.

Sun Shelf / Baja Ledge – A shallow platform inside the pool for lounging or children’s play. It looks like a large, flat step or shallow shelf submerged a few centimetres under water. Its job is to provide a lounging space for pool owners with chairs or a shallow play zone for kids. It is located in the shallow end of modern pools, often as part of luxury designs. During pool renovations, the sun shelf surface is refinished, and bubblers or fittings may be added. Structurally permanent, but the finish typically needs renewal every 10–20 years.

Toe Ledge / Safety Ledge – A narrow ledge running around the deep walls of a pool. It looks like a small underwater shelf, just wide enough for toes. Its job is to give swimmers a foothold for safety in deep areas. It is located around the inside perimeter walls of the deep end. During pool renovations, toe ledges are resurfaced along with the interior, and step-marker tiles are often replaced for visibility. The ledge itself is structural and lasts as long as the pool.

Beach Entry / Ramp – A gradual sloped entry into the swimming pool without steps. It looks like a gently sloping shallow area, similar to walking into the beach. Its job is to provide easy access for children, elderly swimmers, or people with mobility issues. It is located at one side of the pool leading from the deck into the water. During pool renovations, beach entries are resurfaced along with the pool interior, and non-slip finishes may be applied. Structural ramps last indefinitely, but the surface requires renewal with each renovation.

Handrail Socket – A cast sleeve set into the pool deck / coping for stainless steel rails. It looks like a small metal sleeve flush with the paving. Its job is to secure a stainless handrail for safe entry and exit. It is located in the deck / coping at entry points. During renovations, sockets are rarely moved but can be replaced if corroded. The rails themselves may need replacing after 10–20 years depending on wear.

Ladder Anchor – A socket for removable pool ladders. It looks like a square or round sleeve set in the deck / coping area. Its job is to secure portable ladders into position while keeping them removable. It is located on the pool deck at deep ends or entry points. During renovations, anchors may be reset if paving is replaced, and stainless ladders may be updated for aesthetics or safety.

Grab Rail – A stainless steel bar that aids swimmers entering or exiting the pool. It looks like a curved polished bar fixed into sockets in the deck / coping. Its job is to provide stability and safety for pool owners, especially children and elderly swimmers. It is located at pool entry points or steps. During pool renovations, grab rails are often polished or replaced for a fresh look. Stainless rails typically last decades but may corrode in saltwater pools if not maintained.

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Coping / Deck & Surrounds

External pool terms explained

Coping – The stone or concrete edging that finishes the pool perimeter. It looks like a row of wide stones or slabs framing the top of the swimming pool. Its job is to protect the pool shell, provide a safe edge for swimmers, and give a finished look. It is located around the entire pool edge, sitting on top of the bond beam. For pool owners, coping is almost always upgraded during a pool renovation to modernise the look. Natural stone coping lasts 15–25 years, while concrete options may need replacing sooner if exposed to saltwater or chemical damage.

Bullnose Coping –A coping stone with a rounded front edge. It looks like a curved, smooth stone edge. Its job is to create a soft, traditional look and a comfortable handhold for swimmers. It is located around the pool perimeter as the top edge. For pool owners, bullnose coping can chip over time and may be replaced during resurfacing or aesthetic upgrades.

Square-Edge Coping –A coping stone with a clean, sharp-edged finish. It looks flat and straight, giving a crisp, modern profile. Its job is to provide a contemporary edge design. It is located along the pool’s perimeter. For pool owners, square-edge coping is popular in modern renovations. It is durable but may show chipping if heavy objects strike the corners.

Drop-Face Coping –Coping with a deeper front face that hangs lower over the pool wall. It looks like a thick block edge with a “floating” shadow-line effect. Its job is to create a luxury appearance by visually deepening the edge. It is located at the pool perimeter, often used in modern designs. For pool owners, drop-face coping is a premium choice in renovations and is long-lasting if well-installed.

Cantilevered Edge –A concrete deck that overhangs into the pool instead of separate coping. It looks like the pool deck continues straight to the edge with a slight lip. Its job is to give a seamless edge without separate stone. It is located around the swimming pool as part of the deck. For pool owners, cantilevered edges were popular in older builds but can crack if expansion joints fail. They can be refinished or cut back during pool renovations.

Deck Paving / Surrounds – The hardscape area around a swimming pool. It looks like stone paving, tiles, or poured concrete extending around the pool. Its job is to provide safe walking space and integrate the pool into the backyard design. It is located in the pool surrounds beyond the coping. For pool owners, deck paving is commonly updated during renovations for safety, style, or drainage. Lifespan depends on materials: stone can last decades, while concrete may crack over 10–20 years.

Expansion Joint (Coping to Deck or paving) –The gap that separates the pool coping from the deck. It looks like a narrow line filled with flexible sealant. Its job is to allow the deck to expand and move without pushing against the pool coping, preventing cracking. It is located between coping stones and the pool deck. For pool owners, expansion joints are critical and should be re-caulked every 5–10 years. During renovations, all joints are resealed to ensure long-term durability.

Strip Drain / Channel Drain –A long linear drain fitted into the pool deck. It looks like a narrow trench with a removable grate. Its job is to collect surface water and direct it away from the pool surrounds. It is located parallel to the pool edge or in low points of the deck. For pool owners, channel drains are often installed during renovations if water pooling is a problem. Plastic grates may need replacement every 5–10 years, while stainless and stone inserts last longer.

Spoon Drain –A shallow channel cut into concrete or paving for surface runoff. It looks like a narrow trough or groove. Its job is to guide water away from the pool edge into drains or garden beds. It is located in concrete surrounds, typically sloped away from the coping. For pool owners, spoon drains can be re-poured or resurfaced during renovations.

Subsoil Drain (Ag Pipe) –A buried pipe with slots that drains groundwater around the pool. It looks like a corrugated black or white pipe, usually covered in gravel. Its job is to relieve groundwater pressure and keep the pool structure stable. It is located underground around the outside of the pool shell. For pool owners, subsoil drains are not usually changed during a renovation unless the pool has water pressure issues. They can last decades but may clog if not installed with proper gravel backfill.

Inspection Cover (Deck Lid) – An access lid for in-deck pipes, valves, or cables. It looks like a round or square cover set into the deck / coping, sometimes stone-matched, sometimes metal. In older pools, some lids were engraved with the builder’s business name. Its job is to give pool owners access to hidden equipment like valves, debris canisters, or electrical conduits. It is located in the paving or coping near the pool edge. During renovations, these covers are often updated to match new paving.

Mitred Coping Corner –A corner where two coping stones are cut and joined at a 45° angle. It looks like a neat diagonal join in the corner. Its job is to give a clean, professional finish to pool edges. It is located at pool corners or step edges. For pool owners, mitred corners are checked during renovations and may be re-cut or replaced if cracked.

Coping Overhang –The section of coping stone that projects into the pool interior. It looks like a slight lip overhanging the waterline. Its job is to provide shade for tiles, reduce staining, and make the edge easier to grip. It is located along the inside pool perimeter. For pool owners, coping overhangs are shaped during installation and remain fixed. The overhanging stone surface may be resurfaced or polished during renovations.

Deck / Paving Sealant –A protective coating applied to pool surrounds. It looks like a clear or coloured film over stone or concrete. Its job is to protect paving from chemical splashes, salt, and weathering. It is located across all pool surrounds. For pool owners, sealants need reapplication every 2–5 years depending on exposure. Renovations usually include resealing to refresh the finish.

Non-Slip Strip / Safety Edge –A textured insert or strip placed on paving or coping. It looks like a rough or gritted band across the surface. Its job is to improve traction and reduce slips near the pool. It is located on steps, ledges, and wet areas of surrounds. For pool owners, safety strips may be replaced during resurfacing and last 5–10 years depending on wear.

Deck / paving Drain Grate –The visible cover on a strip or channel drain. It looks like a long slotted grate made of plastic, stainless steel, or stone. Its job is to stop large debris while allowing water flow. It is located along deck drains. For pool owners, grates can crack or warp and are often replaced during renovations.

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Maintenance wear parts

Pool plumbing parts jargon explained

O-Rings (General) – Circular rubber seals used everywhere. They look like black rings in lids, unions, and valves. Their job is to seal under pressure. Found on pump lids, filter unions, heater unions, chlorinator cells, multiport stems, leaf canisters. Lube with silicone, not petroleum. Replace 1–3 years.

Valve Seal Kits – Replacement gaskets for diverter/multiport valves. They look like rubber/teflon rings and spiders. Their job is to stop bypass/leaks. Located inside valves. Replace 5–7 years.

Cartridge Elements – The pleated cores in cartridge filters. They look like white cylinders. Their job is fine filtration. Replace 1–3 years (more often for heavy use).

Chlorinator Cells – The titanium plate modules. they are inside what is normally shaped as a clear or seethrough cylinder installed horizontally (rarely vertically depending on brand) As above. Descale carefully; replace 3–7 years.

Heater Parts – Igniters, sensors, flow switches. Small service items that restore operation. Replace as needed; full heaters 8–15 years (type-dependent).

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Automation & power

Pool equipment parts jargon explained

Pool Automation Controller – A hub that runs pumps, lights, heaters, valves. It looks like a wall panel or Wi-Fi box. Its job is scheduling and remote control for the swimming pool owner. Located near equipment or indoors. Brands: Astral Viron Connect, Zodiac Aqualink, Pentair IntelliCenter. Life 5–10 years.

Timers / Relays – The on/off brains for single devices. They look like small dial or digital modules. What do timer /relays do? Their job is to switch pumps, chlorinators, lights. Located in the power board. Life 5–7 years.

Viron Connect 10 – Designed by AstralPool, this is an advanced automation system for swimming pools and spas. What does a Connect 10 do? It brings all major functions—such as pumps, heaters, lights, and valves—under one central control. Users can manage settings through a built-in touchscreen or remotely via a smartphone app when paired with the optional internet gateway. The system gives flexibility to direct water flow through spa jets, pool returns, or other outlets, while also allowing precise control over filtration and heating.

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Spa air blower equipment

Pool equipment parts jargon explained

What does a spa blower look like?

Spa blowers usually look like a rectangular box, it can come in different colours ranging from white, to tan or black, spa blowers have an electrical cable that gets connected to power & are normally located with the swimming pools filtration equipment, standing higher than the sand filter they are normally balanced on a 40mm white PVC pipe which is the pipe that the air pressure flows through to reach the spa air holes.

What does a spa blower do?

A spa blower is a device that injects air into the spa through a network of small jets, creating bubbles and a massaging effect in the water. The blower works by drawing in outside air, compressing it with an electric motor, and forcing it through the spa’s pipework. This not only gives the water a lively, bubbling appearance but also enhances relaxation by stimulating the skin and muscles.​ When you see spa water moving & splashing all over the place - looking like it's boiling, with tiny bubbles throughout... that is the magic of the spa blower doing its job.

Spa Air Blower – A small motor that pushes air to spa injectors. It looks like a compact plastic motor in a weather hood. Its job is the “bubbles” in spas. Connected via air line to the air manifold; protected by a check valve. Located at the equipment area, often higher than water level. Maintenance: keep dry, check check-valve; life 5–8 years.

Air Check Valve & Silencer – The protector for the blower line. They look like a small inline valve and a muffler. Their job is to stop water backing into the blower and reduce noise. Located in the air line near the blower. Replace 3–5 years.

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Sanitiser electrics & flow

Pool equipment parts jargon explained

Flow Switch / Sensor – A safety that confirms water is moving. It looks like a small inline sensor or paddle. Its job is to stop chlorinators/heaters from running dry. Located near chlorinator/heater. Replace 3–5 years.

Inline Chemical Feeder (Legacy) – A tablet chlorinator canister. It looks like a small tube with a lid, plumbed on the return. Its job is to dissolve tablets. Located after filter. Maintenance: check for gas build-up; seals 3–5 years. Many owners move to salt/mineral systems during renovation and this feature is not normally used anymore.

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Plumbing parts & materials

Pool equipment parts jargon explained

PVC Pressure Pipe (Class 9 / Class 12) – The standard pool plumbing pipe in Australia. It looks like rigid white or grey pipe marked with Class/PN rating (e.g., Class 12/PN12 for higher pressure, Class 9/PN9 for lower). Its job is to safely carry water under pressure. Located underground and at the equipment pad. Why it matters: choose the right class for long runs and high-head systems. Lifespan: decades if glued correctly.

Flexible PVC (Spa-Flex) – A bendable pressure hose used in short runs. It looks like ribbed/spiral white hose. Its job is easier routing around tight spots. Located behind spas and features. Note: can soften on strong suction/hot areas; use rigid PVC for long runs. Life: 10–20 years.

DWV Pipe (Drain-Waste-Vent) – Non-pressure pipe you should NOT use on pool pressure lines. It looks similar to pressure PVC but thinner and marked DWV. Its job is household drainage, not pool pressure. Using it on pools risks failures.

Primer & Solvent Cement – The purple/clear liquids used to glue PVC. They look like small tins with brushes. Their job is to soften (primer) and weld (cement) fittings for leak-free joints. Located anywhere PVC is joined. Replace tins yearly; keep lids tight.

Elbows / Tees / Reducers / Couplings – Standard PVC joiners. They look like white or grey fittings of various angles and sizes. Their job is to route and adapt plumbing. Located throughout suction, filter, heater, solar and return lines. Last for decades when glued well.

Barrel Unions – Screw-apart joints with O-rings for service. They look like a chunky collar that unscrews. Their job is quick removal of pumps, filters, heaters, cells. Located at every major appliance. Maintenance: lube O-rings; replace 3–5 years if perished.

Union O-Rings – The rubber seals inside unions. They look like round black rings. Their job is to seal threaded union faces. Located at pumps, filters, heaters, chlorinators. Maintenance: silicone lube twice a year; replace 1–3 years when flattened/cracked.

Ball Valve – A simple on/off valve in PVC. It looks like a straight valve with a coloured handle. Its job is isolation for service. Located anywhere you need shut-off. Life: 5–10 years (seals).

3-Way Valve (Jandy-style) – A diverter valve with three ports. It looks like a large grey valve with a rotating handle/actuator. Its job is to split flow (e.g., pool vs spa, skimmer vs main drain). Located on suction and return manifolds. Seals kits: 5–7 years. Brands: Jandy, Pentair, Astral.

Check Valve (Non-Return) – A one-way valve to stop backflow. It looks like a clear body with a flapper. Its job is to protect heaters, keep solar loops primed, and stop back-siphon. Located on returns, solar lines, after chlorinator. Flappers: 5–7 years.

PTFE Thread Tape – The white tape for threaded joints. It looks like a small roll. Its job is to seal threads on unions/valves. Located on any threaded fitting. Replace whenever a joint is remade.

Pressure Test Plug – A rubber expanding plug for testing lines. It looks like a small bung with a wing nut. Its job is to pressure block pipes, usually during test plumbing and sometimes during builds/repairs. Used at equipment pad and at pool penetrations.

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Returns & other

Pool equipment parts jargon explained

Return Manifold – The set of pipes that send clean water back. It looks like a tee’d set of PVC lines. Its job is to feed wall returns, in-floor cleaning valve, pressure cleaner port, water features, and spa return. Located after sanitiser on the equipment pad. Maintenance: valve seals/unions 5–7 years.

Booster Pump (Pressure Cleaner) – A small extra pump for cleaners like Polaris. It looks like a compact pump beside the main equipment. Its job is to pressurise the pressure cleaner port. Connected on the return side with a dedicated line to the pool. Brands: Polaris/ Pentair. Replacement: 6–10 years.

Robotic Cleaner & Power Supply – A plug-in electric pool robot. It looks like a vacuum with a floating cable and a small transformer box. Its job is independent floor/wall cleaning (no plumbing). Used in the pool, power box on deck. Brands: Maytronics Dolphin, Zodiac, Hayward. Wear parts (tracks/brushes) 1–3 years; robot 5–7+ years.

Suction Cleaner – A vaccum that runs off the suction line. It looks like a disc or geared head on a hose. Its job is to use pump suction to collect debris. Plugs into skimmer or dedicated vac line. Hoses/diaphragms 1–3 years.

Leaf Canister (Portable) – Inline canister for suction cleaners. It looks like a clear pod with a basket on the hose. Its job is to catch leaves before the pump basket. In-pool on the hose. Basket 1–2 years, body many years.

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Sanitising & chemistry

Pool equipment parts jargon explained

Saltwater Chlorinator Cell – The clear chamber that makes chlorine from salt. It looks like a clear tube with titanium plates. Its job is to produce chlorine as water passes. Installed after filter/heater, before returns. Brands: Astral E series, Zodiac Tri-XO, Waterco, Davey. Maintenance: acid-clean plates only when scaled; cell life 3–7 years.

Chlorinator Control Box – The power/control unit for the cell. It looks like a wall box with buttons/screen. Its job is to set chlorine output & timers. Near equipment. Life 5–10 years.

Mineral Pool System – A chlorinator designed for magnesium/potassium mineral blends. It looks similar to a salt system. Its job is gentler-feeling water for swimming pool owners. Brands: Zodiac MagnaPool, Waterco Hydroxinator, Astral. Same cell life 3–7 years.

pH / ORP Controller – An automatic chemistry controller. It looks like a small panel with two probes and dosing lines. Its job is to measure pH and ORP (chlorine activity) and run dosing pumps. Located at equipment. Brands: Pool Controls Chemigem, Astral eQuilibrium, Hayward Sense & Dispense. Probes 12–24 months, tubes 6–12 months.

Acid Dosing Pump & Drum – A small pump that feeds diluted acid. It looks like a peristaltic pump with a suction line into a drum. Its job is to keep pH in range. Located at equipment (shaded/ventilated). Maintenance: squeeze tube 6–12 months; check lines/fittings quarterly.

Ozone Generator – A box that makes ozone gas for oxidation. It looks like a small unit with clear tubing plumbed into the return. Its job is to reduce chlorine demand. Located after filter, often with injector. Replacement: lamp/cell 2–4 years.

UV Steriliser for swimming pools – A clear chamber with a UV lamp inside. It looks like a vertical tube. Its job is to kill microorganisms as water passes. Installed after filter. Lamp 12–18 months.

AOP / Hydroxyl System – A combo of ozone+UV that creates powerful oxidisers. It looks like a chamber/box combo. Its job is top-tier water clarity. After filter. Brands: Astral Hydroxypure, others. Components 3–5 years.

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Solar heating

Pool equipment parts jargon explained

Solar Heating System – A roof-mounted array that warms water with the sun. It looks like black strip rubber or rigid panels across a roof. Its job is to heat pool water by pumping it up to the roof and back. The loop tees off the return line after the filter; a controller/valve sends water to roof collectors when the roof is warmer than the pool. Brands in AU: Sunbather, Boss Solar, Heliocol, Zane (Astral).

Solar Controller – The brains that decide when to send water to the roof. It looks like a small wall-mounted box with temp settings. Its job is to compare roof sensor vs pool sensor and drive a motorised valve/pump. Located near equipment. Replacement: 7–10 years.

Motorised Solar Valve / Actuator – The valve that opens the roof loop. It looks like a large 3-way valve with an electric motor on top. Its job is to route return water either through the roof or bypass. Located in return plumbing. Maintenance: actuator gears/seals 5–7 years.

Solar Blanket / Roof Collectors (Strip/Rigid Panels) – The actual solar matting. It looks like black rubber “noodles” or hard polypropylene panels. Its job is to transfer heat from sun to water. Located on the roof with headers and straps. Maintenance: check for leaks/UV cracking; lifespan 10–15 years.

Vacuum Relief Valve (Vacuum Breaker) – A small valve at the roof high point. It looks like a little cap/valve on the top header. Its job is to let air in so panels drain when the pump stops (prevents collapse). Located at the highest point. Replace 3–5 years.

Non-Return / Check Valve (Solar) – Stops roof water draining backwards. It looks like a clear flapper valve. Its job is to hold prime and protect equipment. Located on the solar line. Replace flap 5–7 years.

Roof Sensor & Pool Sensor – Temperature probes for the controller. They look like small probes with cables. Their job is to measure roof and pool temps. Located on roof and in pipe or skimmer. Replace 5–7 years.

Isolation Valves & Unions (Solar) – Service valves and unions on the loop. They look like ball valves and screw unions. Their job is easy service/removal. Located at equipment. Replace seals 5–7 years.

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General Heating

Pool equipment parts jargon explained

Gas Heater – A box heater that warms pool/spa water quickly. It looks like an outdoor appliance with vents/flue. Its job is fast heat on demand. It’s plumbed after the filter and often before the chlorinator; sometimes on a bypass manifold. Brands: Astral JXi/Viron, Zodiac, Pentair, Hayward. Parts: heat exchanger (cupronickel/stainless), burner, igniter, fan, gas valve, high-limit switch, flow switch. Maintenance: annual service, keep vents clear. Replacement: 8–12 years. Renovation: popular upgrade but not mandatory.

Heat Pump – An electric “reverse A/C” that heats efficiently. It looks like a big outdoor A/C unit with a fan. Its job is steady, economical heating. Installed after the filter, often with a bypass. Brands in AU: Madimack, EvoHeat, Astral. Parts: scroll compressor, evaporator coil, titanium heat exchanger, expansion valve, controller, defrost, condensate drain. Maintenance: hose coil, clear airflow; professional service annually. Replacement: 10–15 years.

Heater Bypass Manifold – A set of valves to send water around a heater. It looks like three valves forming a “U”. Its job is to control flow/pressure through the heater and allow isolation. Located in the return plumbing near the heater. Maintenance: valve seals 5–7 years. Renovation: good time to add if missing.

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Filtration

Pool equipment parts jargon explained

Sand Filter – A large round tank filled with sand or glass. It looks like a barrel with a multiport valve on top/side. Its job is to trap dirt as water flows through the media. Located after the pump. Brands: Waterco, Astral, Hayward. Media change: every 5–7 years; tank life 15+ years. Renovation: not required, but many owners upgrade media to glass.

Filter Media (Sand / Glass) – The granules inside a sand filter. It looks like brown silica sand or green/clear crushed glass. Its job is to physically trap particles. Located inside the filter. Maintenance: backwash/rinse; replace 5–7 years (glass may last longer).

Laterals & Standpipe – The internal “fingers” at the bottom of a sand filter. They look like slotted arms around a central tube. Their job is to collect filtered water evenly. Located inside the tank. Replacement: only if broken (rare).

Cartridge Filter – A tank with a pleated paper-like element. It looks like a tall cylinder with clamp band. Its job is fine filtration without backwashing (great for water saving). Located after the pump. Brands: Davey, Astral, Hayward. Maintenance: hose clean monthly; cartridges 1–3 years.

DE Filter – A tank that coats grids with diatomaceous earth powder. It looks like a fibreglass cylinder. Its job is ultra-fine filtration (1–3 microns). Located after pump. Brands: Waterco, Hayward. Maintenance: recharge with DE; grid service as needed. Less common in AU now.

Multiport Valve – The big lever on sand/DE filters. It looks like a 6-position head (Filter/Backwash/Rinse/Waste/Recirc/Closed). Its job is to direct water for filtering or cleaning. Mounted on filter. Maintenance: spider gasket 5–7 years; keep handle smooth.

Spider Gasket – The rubber ring inside a multiport valve. It looks like a spoked gasket. Its job is to seal ports so water goes the right way. Located under the multiport lid. Replacement: 5–7 years or when valve leaks to waste.

Pressure Gauge – The small dial on top of the filter. It looks like a round gauge marked in PSI/kPa. Its job is to tell you when to backwash/clean. Located on filter or valve. Replacement: 3–5 years.

Air Relief / Bleed Valve – A little vent on top of some filters. It looks like a twist or push button. Its job is to purge trapped air. Located on filter lid. Maintenance: O-ring/lubrication as needed.

Waste/Backwash Line – The pipe that dumps dirty water. It looks like a hose or hard line to a drain. Its job is to carry backwash water away. Located off the multiport “Waste” port. Check local rules for discharge.

Backflow – The reverse movement of water in plumbing. In pools, this means water flowing backward into the clean supply, potentially contaminating it. Prevented with one-way check valves or backflow devices. 

Backwash – A cleaning process for sand or DE filters. Water flow is reversed through the filter, flushing trapped debris and sending it out through the waste line.

Centrifugal Pump – A pump that uses a spinning impeller to create pressure and move water. The most common type of pool circulation pump.    

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Suction side (from pool to pump)

Pool equipment parts jargon explained

Suction Manifold – The group of valves that selects where water is drawn from. It looks like several grey PVC valves feeding one pipe into the pump. Its job is to choose skimmer vs main drain vs vacuum line. It sits at the equipment pad before the pump. Maintenance: keep handles free; replace valve seals 5–7 years. Renovation: usually kept unless replumbing.

Pump – The main motor that circulates swimming pool water. It looks like a motor with a clear-lid strainer basket on the front. Its job is to pull water from the suction lines and push it through the filter. It lives at the equipment pad. Brands: AstralPool, Davey, Pentair/Onga, Waterco, Hayward. Replacement: 8–12 years (bearings/mech seal wear). Renovation: often upgraded for efficiency, not mandatory.

Variable-Speed Pump – A pump with adjustable speeds to save power. It looks like a normal pump with a digital keypad on top. Its job is low-speed filtration, high-speed tasks (heating/cleaners). Located at the equipment pad, connected like any pump. Brands: Pentair IntelliFlo, Astral Viron, Zodiac FloPro VS. Replacement: 8–12 years. Renovation: popular upgrade.

Pump Strainer Basket – The pre-filter inside the pump. It looks like a small plastic mesh basket under the clear lid. Its job is to catch leaves before they hit the impeller. Located inside the pump. Maintenance: clean weekly; replace 2–4 years if cracked.

Pump Lid & O-Ring – The clear lid and its seal on the pump pot. It looks like a screw-on or clamp lid with a round rubber O-ring. Its job is to keep airtight seal so the pump can prime. Located on the pump front. Maintenance: silicone-lube O-ring every 3–6 months; replace 1–2 years or when flattened/cracked.

Mechanical Seal (Pump) – The water seal between motor and wet end. It looks like a small ceramic/carbon spring seal hidden behind the impeller. Its job is to stop leaks along the motor shaft. Located inside the pump housing. Replacement: when you see water under the motor (typically 5–8 years). Renovation: not affected.

Impeller & Diffuser – The internal parts of a pump that actually move the water. They look like plastic vaned discs inside the pump. Their job is to convert motor rotation into water flow. Located inside the pump housing. Maintenance: clear blockages; replace if worn (5–10 years).

Dedicated Vacuum Line – A suction port purely for vacuum hoses/cleaners. It looks like a wall fitting mid-depth in the pool. Its job is to give strong suction without using the skimmer. Connected to the suction manifold and pump. Renovation: usually retained; may be blanked if not used.

In-Deck Debris Canister (Suction) – A leaf canister built into paving. It looks like a deck/coping lid with a deep basket below. Its job is to trap large debris before the pump. Connected between a debris drain/skimmer and the pump. Maintenance: empty weekly; baskets 1–2 years.

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Pool Equipment map layout

Water flow direction or map layout of pool equipment.

Equipment Plumbing Map – A simple way to picture how water moves through a pool.

It usually looks like this: Suction side (skimmer(s), main drain, dedicated vacuum line, in-deck debris canister) water flows through skimmer box or suction point to → pump → filter → (optional heater or solar loop) → chlorinator cell / sanitiser → return manifold (returns, cleaner pressure port, in-floor valve, water features, spa). 

Each plumbing map was unique to the pool equipment it was representing.

They were normally located by the equipment pad with pipes branching to and from the swimming pool.

Why it matters: it helps any pool owner understand which bit does what when troubleshooting or looking for parts.

Most swimming pools no longer have a map layout of the pool equipment & new swimming pools never have them made anymore.

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Swimming Pool Renovation & Resurfacing Terms

Understanding the meaning of the service you seek.

Pool Renovation
Refers to major upgrades or improvements made to an existing swimming pool. This can include replacing coping and paving, retiling the pool interior, changing the pool’s shape, modernizing finishes, or updating structural features. Renovation is usually a broader project that can transform both the look and function of a pool. Renovation basically means an old swimming pool will look brand new when it is complete.

View more here: Pool Renovations

Pool Resurfacing
A process of applying a new interior finish to the pool shell. Common resurfacing materials include pebblecrete, quartzon, marblesheen, or ceramic/porcelain tiles. Resurfacing means replacing worn, rough, cracked, or stained pool surfaces and gives the pool a fresh, watertight layer while improving aesthetics. When a swimming pool has waterline tiles, resurfacing usually means keeping the original tiles and replacing the surface below the tile line. Resurfacing can also mean changing the interior type, for example: from a pebble interior to a fully tiled pool.

Learn more about interiors here: Resurfacing

Fully Tiled
Means the pool’s entire interior is lined with small ceramic, porcelain, or glass mosaic tiles (instead of pebble or render). Fully tiled pools are considered premium: they’re smooth, durable, resistant to chemicals and algae, and offer a luxury finish. This is often the most expensive resurfacing / renovation choice.

You can see examples and information of fully tiled swimming pools here: Fully tiled pools

Pool Repairs
Targeted fixes to damaged parts of the pool. Examples include repairing cracks in the shell, replacing broken or loose tiles, fixing rust spots caused by corroding steel reinforcement, or sealing leaks. Repairs are usually smaller in scope than full renovation or resurfacing.


Discover more about pool repairs here: Pool Repairs Melbourneor here: Repairs for swimming pools

Extra Terms People Commonly Search:

Pool Restoration
Similar to renovation, but often used to describe bringing an old or neglected pool back to near-original condition. Restoration may include cleaning, repairing, repainting, and minor resurfacing — aiming to make the pool look original again without necessarily changing its design.

Pool Revamp
A modern term for giving a pool a cosmetic and functional upgrade. This might mean updating coping and paving, adding new waterline tiles, installing LED lighting, or refreshing surfaces. It usually suggests improving appearance and usability without complete changes.

Pool Remodeling
A more American term but sometimes used in Australia too. Remodeling often implies design changes — like reshaping steps, converting a deep pool to a shallow one, adding a spa section, or changing the pool’s depth.

Pool Refurbishment
Closely related to restoration; typically means renewing worn-out finishes, equipment, and features. Refurbishment often includes replacing outdated filtration equipment, new plumbing, or updating surfaces without changing the basic pool structure.​ Basically, refurbishment is mostly related to the pool function and not the aesthetics.

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Pool painting Jargon

Pool Painters Language

Epoxy Sealer is a thin, clear or lightly tinted liquid that gets rolled or brushed onto the pool surface before the topcoat goes down. It soaks into the concrete or old render, binding any loose particles and creating a stable, sealed base so the epoxy paint bonds properly. It’s usually applied directly to the bare shell after preparation, acting like a primer.

Epoxy Filler is a paste-like product used to smooth out rough spots, small hollows, or surface imperfections in the pool shell before painting. Once it hardens, it can be sanded smooth so the final coating has an even finish. You’ll usually see it worked into cracks or pitted areas during the preparation stage.

Epoxy Putty is as a clay-like material, sometimes in a roll or stick that you knead together before applying. It’s used for patching more noticeable cracks, chips, or areas where concrete has broken away. It hardens quickly and becomes waterproof and rock-solid, making it ideal for touch-up repairs before the paint system goes on.

Roller is the main tool used to apply epoxy paint and sealers across the large surface areas of a pool. It usually has a medium to long nap sleeve that holds enough paint to cover evenly without leaving heavy marks. Rollers are used on the walls, floor, and steps of the pool where smooth coverage is needed.

Brush is still essential in epoxy painting, even though most of the pool is rolled. It’s used to cut into tight corners, around fittings, in step edges, and anywhere the roller can’t reach. The bristles leave a more controlled line, especially when working near expansion joints, lights, or skimmer openings.

Painter’s Tape is the coloured masking tape used to create clean edges and protect areas that shouldn’t be painted. In pool work, it’s often laid along the waterline, around fittings, or on adjoining stone and coping so that when the tape is peeled away, the epoxy finish has sharp, straight lines with no overspray or bleed.

Surface Grinder / Sander - A surface grinder or heavy-duty sander is often used before any epoxy is applied. It strips away loose paint, chalky plaster, or rough patches of concrete so the new coating can stick properly. You’ll usually see this in action during the preparation stage, with dust collected or washed away before sealing.

Mixing Paddle - Attaches to a drill and is used to blend epoxy components together. Because epoxy paint comes in two parts that need to be mixed evenly, the paddle ensures there are no unmixed streaks that could leave weak spots. It’s always used just before the paint or filler is applied.

Buckets / Mixing Pails Sturdy plastic or metal buckets are used to measure and combine the epoxy components. They’re marked so the correct ratios of resin and hardener can be mixed. In pool work, they’re also used to carry smaller batches to different areas of the shell during the job.

Protective Gear - Because epoxy gives off strong fumes, protective gear is always part of the kit though not usually needed outdoors. This includes respirators, gloves, goggles, and coveralls. You won’t see this left in the pool once the job’s done, but it’s essential for safety during application.

Drop Sheets / Plastic Sheeting - Large plastic sheets are spread over coping, paving, or nearby landscaping to stop splashes of epoxy sealer or paint. They’re lightweight and taped down before the job starts, making cleanup quicker and protecting finished surfaces around the pool.

Extension Pole - connects to the roller so painters can reach deep into the pool floor and across wide walls without climbing in too often. It makes rolling smoother and keeps the painter at a safer distance from fresh coatings.

Sandpaper / Abrasive Pads - Even after patching with epoxy filler or putty, the repaired spots need sanding smooth. Sandpaper or abrasive pads are used to feather the edges so they blend seamlessly into the rest of the pool surface before the topcoat is applied.

Cleaning Solvent - Before sealing or painting, a cleaning solvent such as acetone is sometimes used to wipe down surfaces or tools. It removes grease, oils, or any residue that could stop the epoxy from bonding properly. It’s also used to clean rollers and brushes before they harden.

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Pool & construction

Powders / Liquids

Calcium - In pool terms, calcium usually refers to the hardness of the water. It isn’t something you can see floating around, but when levels are too high, you’ll notice chalky white scale building up on tiles or equipment. If levels are too low, the water becomes aggressive and starts eating into plaster, grout, and even concrete. It’s always present in the pool water itself, but the signs of imbalance show up on the interior finish or the equipment.
In construction: calcium compounds are used in cement and lime products, influencing setting time and strength. Too much or too little calcium in concrete mixes can affect durability and cracking resistance.

Hydrochloric Acid - This is a clear liquid with a strong smell, normally kept in plastic containers around the pool equipment area. It’s used carefully to lower pH and alkalinity in pool water, and also to clean excess cement or grout haze from tiles and coping stones. Even though you won’t see it once it’s in the water, it plays an important role in keeping chemical balance under control.
In construction, hydrochloric acid is often used for cleaning brickwork, etching concrete surfaces before coatings, or removing efflorescence from masonry.

Chlorine - comes in different forms — liquid, powder, or tablets — but all of them have that strong bleach smell people associate with pools. It’s the main sanitiser that kills bacteria and algae, keeping the water safe to swim in. It ends up dissolved in the water, either through a dosing system, a chlorinator, or just added by hand.
In construction, chlorine isn’t used directly, but chlorides (like calcium chloride) are sometimes added to concrete as an accelerator to speed up curing, especially in cold conditions.

Buffer (Sodium Bicarbonate) - This looks like a fine white powder, very similar to baking soda. Pool owners add it when their alkalinity levels are too low, because it helps steady the pH and stop it from swinging up and down. You won’t see it once it’s dissolved, but it makes the water chemistry far more stable.
In construction, sodium bicarbonate can be used as a mild abrasive cleaner or neutraliser, especially after acid washing concrete or brick.

Waterproof - When something is waterproof, it forms a complete barrier against water passing through. In pools this could be a special membrane, a coating, or additives built into cement products. You won’t always notice it on the surface, but it’s hidden underneath tiles, renders, or stonework to protect the concrete shell and surrounding areas from leaks.
In construction, waterproofing is critical in basements, retaining walls, bathrooms, and roofing, where membranes, sealers, and admixtures prevent water penetration and structural damage.

Water Resistant - means a surface can hold up against splashes and moisture for a while, but it’s not impenetrable forever. Grouts, sealants, and even paving stones around pools often fall into this category — they’ll resist water for a time, but eventually need re-sealing or maintenance to stop moisture from soaking in.
In construction, many finishes like paints, coatings, or cladding are designed to be water resistant, protecting structures from weather without being fully waterproof.

Wash Sand: This is sand that has been rinsed to remove dirt, clay, and other impurities. It looks cleaner than raw sand and feels coarse between your fingers. It’s commonly used in mortar mixes, tile beds, and paving bases around pools, giving a strong, even surface for cement and adhesives to stick to.
In construction, washed sand is a standard aggregate for mortars, plasters, and concrete mixes, ensuring strength and consistency without contamination.

Triple Wash Sand: Triple wash sand goes through an even more thorough cleaning, so it’s very pure and light in colour. Because it has almost no dust or silt, it gives adhesives and mortars the best possible bond. That’s why pool tilers prefer it for bedding tiles or coping stones where strength is critical.
In construction, high-grade washed sands are also used in render finishes, high-strength mortars, and specialist concretes where impurities can’t be tolerated.

Cement: is the fine grey powder that forms the backbone of all concrete and mortar. On its own it’s just powder, but once it’s mixed with sand and water it hardens into a solid material. In pools it’s part of the shell, the render, the bedding for coping stones, and the adhesive that holds tiles in place.
In construction, cement is the essential binder for all structural concrete, masonry mortars, screeds, and precast products, forming the foundation of most modern building work.

Concrete Sand: is coarser than the washed varieties, with bigger grains you can see clearly. It gives strength to mixes when combined with cement and water, making it the go-to choice for structural work like pool shells, paving bases, and larger concrete areas around a pool.
In construction, concrete sand is widely used in structural slabs, footings, road bases, and heavy-duty concrete applications where strength and stability are critical.

Polymer: in pool work are usually liquid additives that look milky white before being mixed in. Once combined with cement or adhesives, they make the material stick better, flex more, and resist water far longer. They’re often hidden inside tile adhesives or waterproof mortars, quietly improving performance without being visible.
In construction, polymers are used in modified mortars, concrete repair products, sealants, and flooring compounds to improve bonding, flexibility, and chemical resistance.

Adhesive: in pool building usually means tile glue — either cement-based thinset or an epoxy system. It can look like a grey or white paste or powder before mixing. Its only job is to grab the tiles and hold them firmly to the concrete or mortar beneath, even under constant water pressure and chemical exposure.
In construction, adhesives range from tile glue to construction mastics and structural epoxies, used for fixing stone, cladding, flooring, and even bonding steel or timber where traditional fasteners aren’t suitable.

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